Is 8psi worth it???

[Mr Rogers]

I can't really say with a valid answer yes or on because I went 8psi from the begining, but I can say this. 8PSI is tons of fun and the difference is pretty noticeable (I did ride in Lundgren's 6psi before my install). With a pms and 370's you should should just do either the Endyn alternater stepper pully (would be my choice) or the CRV crank pulley (Holden is getting rid of his). You have a great setup to safely up the boost so go with it. Good luck on what ever you do

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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet.

[Holden]

The power difference between the 6psi setup and the approximately 10psi setup when I put the CRV pulley on was ENORMOUS!!!

I only drove 50 miles on the CRV pulley, but two weeks later my car still feels slow compared to the sweet memory of that weekend at 10psi.

With your advanced fuel system, the only problem you would have is replacing the bottom end every 20K or so! Just a guess on the interval, but that much power through the stock bottom end won't last forever.

The pulley is still for sale. $130 shipped. I'll throw in the crank tool I made for another $24 (cost) + $5 (shipping - it's heavier than the pulley!).

Greg

[BurntGSR]

I think the "butt dyno" exaggerates the actual performance increase upon upgrade. I also think the gains with cam/fuel tuning is greater with 8 PSI. The question becomes a matter of the safety vs. performance increase. My opinion with your setup, knowledge, and resources available that you should be able to move to 8 PSI safely. In such a case, the returns would be well worth the efforts because it would be done safely. I enjoyed it once the cat was gone, header installed, J&S installed, 6BTM installed and fuel adjusted. Sure wish I had the PMS before I melted those two pistons.

[Holden]

I agree that butt-dyno's are pretty inaccurate, but the first 10 psi WOT run had the same dramatic feeling as the first 6psi WOT run after the original install.

That's still subjective though.

Here's something non-subjective: At 10psi, rolling 10mph start in 1st gear, warm Yoko AVSi's on warm smooth asphalt, the tires broke free damn near instantly.

At 6psi, my tires only break free at higher RPM's on so-so pavement.

I think Rafe was being very restrained when he simply called his setup's (Endyne Stepper pulley) new feeling "torquey".

If I thought the bottom end could take that power, I'd upgrade injectors and be there in a second. I'm at 51K miles now. If I make it to 80K, I'm going back to 10psi until it puts my engine out of its' misery.

I too would love to see dyno numbers from >8psi setups. I harbor suspicions that benefits are limited, but would like to be proved wrong.

Greg

[rjaffey]

I can't comment on 8psi, but 9 or 10psi; whatever you get when you increase the blower speed by 12% rather than the slightly over 5% of the "8psi" upgrade is totally worth it in my opinion, though it costs at least another 2K to do it right:

- Injectors
- Cartech
- B&M Commandflow
- J&S
- BTC
- Pulley
- Header
- Converter
- Custom exhaust
- Catch can
- Misc stuff (belt, fittings, hoses, etc.)

It's a lot more fun. As to how long the motor will last, I'm a bit more optimistic than Greg. I think with good tuning and elimination of abnormal combustion and excessive heat buildup, a stock motor can hold up under the added boost for a lot longer than 20K miles. Of course, sensible driving and proper maintenance are part of the equation too.

[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited August 28, 2000).]

[Turismo]

I have a question for all the 8psi JRSC GSR people out there... Is it worth it??

Is the added power worth the trouble of removing the blower, and risk of damage??
Does anyone have any Dyno plots to back the increase up?

I ask because I finally got my setup with my PMS and 380 injectors to work and have now found a local shop with a Dyno that is familliar with the PMS and will tune for me. I don't really want to have to go back and spend more $$ if I change the pulley later but am a little sceptical about the ammount that can be gained between 6 & 8 psi on a Dyno.

Anyone...

[HondaCivicEx98]

Why not a couple of shots over the 6 psi?
isnt it better? i am thinking of this too.

[Holden]

Keep talking Rafe. I want to believe!

According to your post, all I need is injectors, an oil cooler and a straight pipe (I'll stay at 8 degrees timing and forgo the fancy electronics) to handle 9-10psi.

What exactly makes you think the stock block will live more than 20K miles when 270-290hp are going through the crank?

Please convince me, because I'd love to put that CRV pulley back on.

This could be my "winter" project! (You know, casually dropping a reference to buying more car parts to the missus, hiding the expenses in the company books, pulling the "oh look at these little (imply "cheap") things that I bought" routine when the package arrives, sneaking a straight pipe on without eco-freak friends and relatives finding out, etc....)

Greg